The photo stuff is tedious on the road, as we are touring most of the day. I promise I will itemize the pics and discuss them and post them here as I can. In the meantime, I will post my journal entries here for your perusal. Feel free to flame away, but please realize these are journals--stream of consciousness writing without regard to grammar or convention. Also realize they contain my thoughts, and I might not deal with a particular fact you are looking for. My photo blog entries will be much more in depth, but I wanted you to see how things are going for me right now as I sit in DC.
May 21, 2007—GETTYSBURG, PA
Ahhh…..here it comes…a chance to return to Gettysburg, and to see some different things, as well as to possibly help out with the tour. I feel so odd at times chiming in, because I don’t want to seem like a knowitall, or to get in the way of what Dr. Rodriguez is trying to accomplish. I want to learn, but maybe I can help as well, at least that is my intent with my interruptions, questions, and observations. I have been to Gettysburg twice, and each time I have found new things. I was not disappointed this time, either, especially since my fellow travelers seemed to have things in better perspective.
It is interesting to note the degree of reverence at this place of battle. Antietam had silence, but Gettysburg had an aura. It was beyond hallowed ground. At Antietam, there were some monuments scattered about, but Gettysburg was practically a Mecca of monuments. Most of the battle monuments at Antietam were plain, but the ones at Gettysburg each had their own distinct character for the most part.
Each time I come here, I think of the blood spilled, and by many who lived not far. People like Gen. John Reynolds, as well as two Culps. This battle even had a civilian casualty in Jennie Wade. Each monument tells a story, and I was happy that quite a few times we were able to get out and see some of the stories as well as the beautiful sculpting done on the monuments. Getting the guidebooks with Cd-roms and the auto tour was great, because I had a pocket sized map I could refer to and manipulate. I cannot wait to try out the computer simulations. Yes, I am a history military geek. However, for me, the Civil War is a very important time. As many have said and has become cliché, it was a time when the ideals of our Founding were tested, and the bonds ultimately held.
The highlights of the trip for me are always Little Round Top, Devil’s Den, and the High Water Mark. Even before I saw the movie Gettysburg or read the book Killer Angels, I was fascinating by a great teacher I had in school who brought us his slides from the Battlefields. As I have stated earlier, I like to see history and experience, not just at museums. To me, walking on this hallowed ground is very special. I can hear the cannon, see the Rebs wanting to rush the hill, feel the bullets whizzing past my ear, and feel my heart in my chest. I will never ever tire of Gettysburg.
The unfortunate thing about the popularity and the many things to see at Gettysburg has become the amusement side of things. Rather than see this as a chance to understand where we came from and gain an appreciation of how hard it was to maintain the Union and bring our country together, many schools and families see this as just another opportunity for a time out. While many people are transformed when they come here, much of what I witnessed today left me angry. The high school age children who in many cases goofed off IN THE CEMETERY were disgusting. Where was the parental supervision? Where was the obvious respect for the dead? Even the Jr. High kids I brought here a couple of years ago had more respect.
Sadly, I think this is a result of the de-emphasis of history and social studies in schools. I am all for striving for math and science excellence, but how can we appreciate all the technological advances, how can we appreciate the wonder that is our political system(with all its flaws), if we don’t know where issues came from and cannot make an educational argument using history as a backdrop. I was saddened many times today by kids jumping all over the monuments, yelling at each other in the cemetery and other places. Over 50,000 people died here, fighting for what they believed in. Sadly, it makes me wonder what the future will bring to Gettysburg. While I agree with what others said about the light up map needing modernized, when do we say stop to all the mind numbing additions where we don’t even have to use our minds to imagine things?
I refuse to end my time at Gettysburg with a bad note. I was heartened to hear Eddie talk about how he would teach his students before bringing them here. I was heartened when a few students told some of their rowdier compatriots to hush when they entered the graveyard. Perhaps there is hope. I hope there is, because we need to remember what these men did here. We need to remember that there were heroes whose names we may never know, who fought such odds. Men on both sides who believed in something so much they would leave comfort of home and fight. Their era, the circumstances, and chance combined to make them heroes.
I always tear up when I get to the High Water Mark. To me, Lee made the mistake of getting a little overconfident and believing he could do anything. To send those men to their deaths and then have the audacity to ask Pickett to charge again…was Lee not watching them get cut down? I admire Robert E. Lee, but this was not his finest hour, though I believe for many of his men it was theirs.
I love the story of Chamberlain and the 20th Maine, made popular by the film Gettysburg, as well as the relationship between Armistead and Hancock. This battle in many ways, is a microcosm of the war. You had so many former classmates who were now fighting each other. I cannot imagine serving with someone in previous conflicts and then fighting them. However, these men had a sense of duty to God, their beliefs, and their respective nations that led them to take up arms. Some may question it, but I think it showcases a certain dedication to things above themselves.
Gettysburg has over 1300 monuments. I hope one day to see them all. That is why I won’t camp here for a week or more. I want to keep coming back, taking tours, walking around.
In closing, I was moved by a quote from Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain about Gettysburg:
“In great deeds something abides. On great fields something stays. Forms change and pass; bodies disappear; but spirits linger, to consecrate ground for the vision-place of souls. And reverent men and women from afar, and generations that know us not and that we know not of, heart drawn to see where and by whom great things were suffered and done for them, shall come to this deathless field, to pnder and dream, and lo! The shadow of a mighty presence shall wreap them in its bosom, and the power of the vision pass into their souls.”
I think this quote dovetails in some cases with Lincoln and the Gettysburg Address. We cannot do more to make the ground more significant. The brave souls who fought, some who lived and died, did that…and along the way, their blood served in the end to bring our country together, and to bring real again the ideals of the Declaration of Independence, as we discussed in the cemetery today with Dr. Rodriguez.
When I think of Gettysburg, I think of the heights of heroism and the depths of despair. To have been Lee and been so close, only to lose; and I think Lee probably knew this was his last hope. And, the Union boys had to be thinking, at what price victory? To have lost so many, and to see such damage and carnage, it makes one think of the horrors of places in the 20th century like we see in WWII.
May 22, 2007—Manassas, VA; Chancellorsville, VA; and Fredericksburg, VA
Today, we continued touring some of the battlefields in Virginia. Even as we were going to to our first destination of Manassas, I saw a couple of minor battles highlighted. This brightened my hopes for what Manassas and the other sites might bring. However, I was to be disappointed.
Manassas is a very quiet battlefield. The visitor center was very nice, and we were shocked to learn that the electronic map at Manassas was much better than the Gettysburg map. I hope Gettysburg takes notes on how Manassas is doing the electronic map, as it was much easier on the eyes and more active in its approach. Other than that, though, there was not a whole lot unique about Manassas. Except for the story of Judith Henry. That was a very sad tale, but very understandable given the ties people felt and feel to their land. I was reminded of the protests made by Grandpa Joad in the Grapes of Wrath about leaving the land, even though that was the best move. Sadly, Mrs. Henry paid very dearly.
Manassas was bereft of monuments, which while making it plain also gave it a more authentic look. The ranger we encountered working on the Henry House circa 1870 was very friendly and giving with his knowledge. The other thing about Manassas was Dr. Rodriguez telling about the two interpretations of how Stonewall Jackson got his nickname: either as a rallying point for others to follow his example or to get soldiers to get him to do something. I had not heard that.
Numbers at Manassas also were staggering. In the first battle, about 900 were killed per the film. In 2nd Manassas a year later, 2000 died in the first 90 minutes. It shows you how trained and more refined in terms of devastation both armies became. The statue of Stonewall Jackson was very iconic, though even more exaggerated than some of the statues at Gettysburg. Jackson looked like Hercules, very muscular and Titanlike. I thought Manassas was the highlight of the three sites, especially when I saw an area dedicated to General Mosby of the Confeds, even though we didn’t stop there. It makes me want to read my former Professor’s book about Mosby when we get home. While it did not have the majestic scope of Gettysburg or even Antietam, the two battles at Manassas show a contrast to the early optimism and panic of the early days with the steely resolve and forced callousness of the time a year later.
Chancellorsville was a real disappointment. The area was not very well marked, and the visitor’s center did not have a lot to offer. It had some nice smaller exhibits, and the exhibit with the comparison of two soldiers who fought there was interesting; but overall it left much to be desired. There were no monuments, and the markers seemed to come out of nowhere. The tour cd and the map seemed out of whack. The Chancellor home is still just rubble, when maybe a restoration might be helpful. It just seemed like an afterthought, but this battle is very important in terms of the tactics used as well as it marked the beginning of the end for Lee. This is perhaps his finest moment and the tactics are still studied, but you could not tell for the care and time given to the site. However, the forest does show you how forbidding it was, and to think of dying by fire while wounded, as many did, is frightening. I cannot imagine the pain of getting wounded, waiting for help, and then being engulfed in flame. I felt more should have been done to tell the story of Chancellorsville, maybe an electronic map. The film was well done, but that was the lone highlight. It was very poignant to hear the story of Stonewall Jackson and his daughter, that he met her at 5 months old, only to die a few days later. Of course, part of this speaks to the very zeal and bloodthirstiness that made Jackson a daring general. Perhaps if he had not been so hellbent to personally bring about the destruction of Hooker’s army and led the scouting party, then maybe he would not have gotten caught in the crossfire of his own men.
Speaking of which, what is it about Union generals this early, that they think they are gods? Hooker reminded me of the self-promoting McClellan with the dispatches we heard on the tape. Sounds like these men did not understand the true nature of the war as it was developing. This was not just some grand march, it was a brutal contest of wills. Thank goodness for the Union that men like Sherman and Grant would come along, who would change the tactics and focus of the war and use the full advantages that the North had. The Union generals at this time seemed brave on paper, but timid and unsure in the heat of battle. While on the confederate side, Lee seemed to be daring and innovative, as illustrated by his maneuvering at Chancellorsville. However, this would prove Lee’s undoing as maybe he began to believe he could do anything, which led to the folly of Pickett’s charge at Gettysburg.
I don’t have a lot to say about Fredericksburg because we did not do a lot there. The movie was interesting, especially the narration by James Earl Jones (aka Darth Vader). Thinking about Burnside and his tactics, I wonder how he did in terms of West Point? It seemed a bit crazy to go after the high ground as he did. This visitor center was on par with Chancellorsville, in terms of staff and presentation. It would be interesting to look at some of the other sites in Fredericksburg, like the bullet riddled house, but we ran out of time. That was when we received the news we would get the coveted White House tour. I am so excited it will be hard to concentrate on the events before the tour. And, tomorrow we are visiting Monticello, Jefferson’s home, which will be very exciting.
The other thing I wanted to note is the wondrous natural beauty I see in this country. Travelling around the Potomac and Shenandoah, I can see why people so loved their land they were willing to fight for it. This land and its diversity, from the flats of Illinois, to the hills of Cincinnati and Kentucky, to the mountains of West Virginia and Virginia, and the fields of Manassas and Gettysburg, show the beauty of our country. Sitting in the van and just taking it in, as opposed to flying over or driving behind the wheel, gives you a rich appreciation for the people who settled and tamed the land, as well as for those who fought, sometimes against their own kin, for the same land. It is very cliché but I don’t care, my love for this country only grows each day. The rich lands of this part of the nation, while not as stark in contrast as the West with its diversity, are nonetheless beautiful places and I love seeing this area, and look forward to traveling through again. I wish more people had that opportunity to just sit and look at the wonder of our country.
May 23, 2007—Monticello, VA and Tregedar Iron Works, Richmond, VA
Today, we began our journey with a departure from the Civil War. We visited Thomas Jefferson’s home, Monticello. What an amazing structure and property. Situated on top of a mountain, Monticello went from being an 8 room to a 20 plus room home. It was constantly renovated and redesigned over 40 years. We got to see some of Jefferson’s amazing gadgets, his library, and a tour of his home and gardens, as well as the remnants of slave quarters and areas. We also spent some time at Jefferson’s grave and his family’s plot on the property.
Monticello is an amazing experience. Witnessing all the gadgetry, I think it safe to say that Jefferson was perhaps our nation’s top tech geek, only to be challenged by Ben Franklin. Jefferson had an amazing clock system in his entrance parlor, and he used things he saw as an ambassador and Secretary of State like a wine dumbwaiter from Europe to make his house unique. This uniqueness would come back to haunt him as it was costly and when the home was sold, its look did not fetch a very good price.
Our tour guide was a matronly southern gentlewoman, and it was interesting to note that she used the terms slave and servant. Dr. Rodriguez said that on his previous visit, they only used the term servants. This time, fieldhands were slaves and houseslaves were servants. An interesting change, probably due to the changing times and the Sally Hemmings issues.
Looking at Jefferson’s office/bedroom, as well as his library was fascinating. Obviously, Jefferson valued education. He was dedicated to imparting this on his children and grandchildren, as well as wanting our nation’s youth to be educated. I like and approve of this belief. I think some of the negatives in our society can be traced to a less rigorous education in our schools. As an educator, I feel this to be true, seeing how some students and parents abuse the system; as well as how some people use education as a way to perpetuate their own existence. I don’t think Jefferson would be happy with the quality of our current system.
Jefferson was such an exercise in contrasts. On the one hand, he wrote the Declaration of Independence, one of the great expressions of human liberty. Yet, he had slaves and had sex with at least one. He did not free all of his slaves but at the same time he originally talked of abolishing slavery in the Declaration, only to have it removed. Jefferson abolished the slave trade importing, but had a thriving slave plantation. Jefferson, though, was prescient in that he predicted that the only way that we would end slavery was through the shedding of blood, that we would be judged for the ills. Yet, he did not free his own.
However, this in many cases typifies perhaps what many felt, that there was some type of manic depression or bipolar issue. On the one hand, Southerners probably felt slavery was wrong and contrary to America’s founding. However, they put off ending slavery by saying it would come eventually, or the slaves were incapable of caring for themselves, or that they would be lost in the real world. Self-deception, to be sure, but in some cases a glimmer of truth in that some slaves once freed ended up in bondage again. Eddie mentioned a part in Gara’s book where someone sold themselves back into bondage. Stories like these were exaggerated, I think, and in turn helped plantation owners and even non-slave holding sympathizers to sleep at night. Taken within the context of their time, I am sure the picture becomes murky, given that at times Jefferson allowed slaves to grow their own food and sell extra crops, and to make a living, and he provided training, etc. However, the slaves had no choice, and there was no opportunity for advancement beyond some positions.
The gardens were beautiful and one could tell that Jefferson loved exotic flowers as well as tending them, or having others tend them. Viewing Monticello and Mulberry Row, you get the complex picture of Jefferson the patriot, the philosopher, the writer of liberty, but also the slaveowner and the deceiver in terms of his relationship and noncommitment to Sally Hemmings. What emerges is a human Jefferson, which in some cases I think makes his accomplishments and his home, as well as the artifacts, all the more impressive. Jefferson, despite his own conflict with slavery, came to see it as wrong and something that we would all pay for.
I am honored to have entered his home and taken a look around. You can tell Jefferson was a workaholic in the way he had his bedchamber with his bedchamber. You can feel Jefferson’s touch here, and see the love he had for this place.
From Monticello, we went to the Tregedar Iron Works in Richmond, VA, one of the main ironworks factories of the war. It was great to see the restoration of the works, and being able to verify that by riding the elevator past the different renovations and seeing the different bricks was a good experience. The museum had some artifacts that I had not seen before was a fresh change The 120 shot cannon was an amazing weapon I had never seen before, and I can hardly imagine the devastation this weapon could cause. The film showed the importance of Richmond and its proximity to several battlefields. It was an informative and decently done film. I am sure Eddie loved the pikes. It also had some cards used by JW Booth.
Dr. Rodriguez told us the story of how the statue of Lincoln sitting with his son created so much controversy. When the restorations were made and the new museums put in, the KKK protested, and many were upset that the feds would put up a statue of Lincoln in the capital of the Confederacy. This happened no more than six years ago. Hello, it was done as a sign of reconciliation of A WAR THAT ENDED IN 1865! This truly shows how deeply ingrained the war still is on people in “the South.” It is beyond silly to still be fighting a war you lost over a hundred years ago. We should be past this. It is a shame that some people cannot move on in that sense. I can only hope as more time passes, the “hurt” will decrease. It is a statue, people, not a giant middle finger. What harm could it really do? The statue is very poignant, especially when you think of the background of Lincoln and Tad, and the fact Lincoln came to Richmond shortly before his assassination. For me, I thought it was fitting, even though I took a rather cheesy picture of me behind Lincoln. I think it is important to continue to heal and to realize that the war caused hurt on both sides, but in the end, liberty, freedom, and the ideals and writings of the founders could withstand even the black mark of slavery and of people more concerned with their state over their nation. The war ultimately fully baptized our nation and moved it forward, unfortunately at a high cost of life and treasure, but in the end we moved in the directions we needed to—industrialization, beginning the march of defining and refining our civil rights, and making brighter the promise of “the shining city on a hill,” the United States of America.
May 24, 2007—Richmond, VA-Confederate Capitol, St. Paul Episcopal Church, Confederate White House, Museum of the Confederacy, Robert E. Lee’s House; Appamattox Court House
Today was a very busy day. We spent the bulk of it in the heart of the Confederacy, the capital of it, Richmond, Va. We began by parking next to the Confederate White House, the home Jefferson Davis used while President of the Confederacy. We then walked to the Capitol building, where the Confederate legislature met. Thomas Jefferson entered our discussion once again when it was told that he designed the capitol building. We also noticed a beautiful statue of Washington with several of the founders and important Virginians around it. It was almost like a religious artifact, with Washington at the top astride his horse, and Jefferson, Marshall, Henry, and others around him at the bottom like disciples. Then further out were other smaller sculptures representing battles of the revolution. There was also a statue of Stonewall Jackson, but I did not notice one of Robert E. Lee. From the capital, we marched a few blocks and saw Lee’s house in Virginia, a bit standing out from the other buildings around it in downtown Virginia. It is not hard to see why Lee loved his Virginia so, with a house so close to the seats of power, as well as his church just being a couple of blocks away. A few times I closed my eyes and tried to imagine Lee walking the dirt covered streets to church or to the seat of government.
From there, we went to Lee’s church, St. Paul Episcopal. What a beautiful interior. It was very hard not to be moved by the ornate stained glass windows with scenes from the Bible. It was a very ornate and formal church, with pew numbers. Lee sat at pew 111, I believe, or was it 101? Anyway, we also saw the pew where Jeff Davis was praying when he was alerted Lee could not hold off the Yankees from overrunning Richmond. Davis heard this April 2, 1865. A few days later, Lincoln would be in Jeff Davis’s old home, where our tour took us next.
It was with some sadness I listened to Dr. Rodriguez tell us that the Confederate White House and the Museum of the Confederacy might be in danger by nearby VCU. Some students said to move the house, but with the fireproofing done and the age of the structure, I am not sure that is feasible. It seems VCU wants the ground to expand its hospital. The Confed White House was characteristic in many ways of the South and Southern planters in its Victorian style. That style was one of spending a lot of money to look wealthy, and do as much as possible to look wealthier than you are. This led to ruin for the South and for many Southern planters, who like Jefferson, ended their lives in debt. The cost of trying to impress, I suppose.
However, the house had beautiful furniture, and it was both funny and tragic to hear about the Davis children. It seemed most met with unfortunate fates, but they really must have been fun to watch (unless you were a babysitter) frolicking around the grounds. The one son with his mini functioning cannon was a hoot to hear about, though I am sure the neighbors may have been bugged by the report of the cannon.
The Museum of the Confederacy, like the Tregedar Iron works (where the son’s cannon was made), paint a picture of the war from Virginia and the South’s point of view. Slaves were given the euphemism of laborers, which I found to be interesting. The museum had a number of artifacts from several battles, and had items which belonged to Mosby, Morgan, an example of Lee’s headquarters, as well as the state confederate flags and several unit battle flags. This was very interesting and intriguing to see the different designs.
Also interesting was the floor discussing the Confed Navy. Often ridiculed, it did have some innovation, including keg torpedoes as well as ironclads. It was neat to see all the models of the confed ships, even if the navy was not exactly the Spanish Armada.
I also was interested in the display about the removal of the stars and bars and the confederate battle flags, and the continuing discussion over the war among Southerners and Virginians. While I do think many need to get over the fact the war is over, many brave nonslavery people fought for their states and I think if someone wants to fly a flag of the battle colors in tribute, so be it. However, many take it to be an overtly racist act, so I can see the cause for pause. However, if we are to move forward, we must get past t these types of petty disputes.
The highlight for me was Appamattox. Seeing such a beautiful area, and getting to see the McClain house and the very room where Lee surrendered was surreal. However, the McClain house is a reproduction, although a very close reproduction, given that the original was taken apart over the years, according to what Dr. Rodriguez told us. We were regaled with the perspective of Mrs. Pierce, played by a reinactor who told us the story of Appamattox’s involvement in the war, how the citizens were affected by the war, and their reaction to the surrender. It was a great performance, and the young lady showed good knowledge of her subject matter and injected emotion into her words, telling of the sadness of losing many of the men of Appamattox, as well as finding out about her brother in Ohio, and having dinner with Joshua L. Chamberlain, who took as a colonel led the 20th Maine in Gettysburg on Little Round Top and now as a general took part in the surrender.
Grant emerged as a heroic figure, in how he treated the defeated with honor and helped them find their way home by giving them the parole pass. Many may think of Grant as a drunk and failed President, but he showed great honor in victory in his treatment an kindness toward the Army of Northern Va. And it was interesting to note the almost relief Mrs. Pierce had that the war was over for her area of the South, and the respect she had gained for Grant, despite the defeat. Grant emerges here as a noble person, who acted on his own and provided for honor in defeat, allowing the Confederate vets to go home and help them should they be harassed. No matter how else he may have had faults, Grant’s generosity and sense of wanting to heal helped bring this bloody conflict to an end which would see us reunite as a nation, once again unified in blood.
May 25, 2007—Virginia Military Institute, Washington and Lee Univ., Stonewall Jackson house, Battle of New Market; DC night walk to Washington Monument and WWII Monument
We ended our time in Virginia today. We began the day by going to VMI to look at the campus where Thomas Stonewall Jackso//n taught and many of the Southern officers came from, as well as the heroes of New Market. The air was ripe with tradition and military airs as we walked the parade grounds to the chapel, and looked around the museum. I loved looking at the Patton family’s contributions to VMI, but I was a bit unnerved by Jackson’s stuffed horse.
The most moving part of the museum was the displays of congressional medals of honor as well as those who have been killed in our present war on terror, two of whom were killed on 9/11/01 at the Pentagon and tower 1 of the WTC. This was very emotional for me, and I am sure some people wondered why. I remember teaching on 9/11 and the horror on my students’ faces as we watched the carnage. The students in my class had just been to NYC and seeing all remaining traces of innocence vanish from them in an instant due to the evil deeds of others angered and saddened me. They would not live as I did, relatively secure in the security of our shores. While I grew up under the shadow of nuclear war with the Soviets, Ronald Reagan had helped end that threat and things had been relatively peaceful. Like so many others, I had failed to connect the dots of the terror attacks at WTC in 93, the Cole, and others. I have resolved never to forget, and to honor those who fell, and those who give their lives. My emotions got the better of me, as they would again at New Market.
Next we went to Washington and Lee University, which sits next to VMI. We walked around the campus, and went to Lee’s chapel, the one Robert E. Lee had built when he served as President of the school. It was a lovely chapel, but the experience turned bad in a hurry. The beauty and peace of the situation was ruined by the rude tour guide, who made us feel stupid and small by lecturing us that we should have reserved a spot and how we were not on her schedule, and who and what we were. It was very unprofessional and very rude. Lee’s statue lying down was beautifully done, and I wish we would have had a closer look at it with a more capable guide. Unfortunately, we could not go down to the crypt as it was under renovation. We did get to see where Traveler, Lee’s faithful steed, was buried.
From there, it was on to Thomas Stonewall Jackson’s house. Once again, we got a small but polite rebuke about not being on the schedule and we had to move to let a school group through. I did not mind as much because the people were polite. Stonewall’s house was characteristic of Victorians—showy in public, and austere in private. It amazes me people spent so much in the South just for perception, but then again we have the same thing today as many people are once again concerned with how things look over function. The guide was a gentleman from Kentucky who did a decent job. There were some inaccuracies in his talk, but he did present both sides of Stonewall Jackson—the intellect but the rigidity in dealing with students, the religious man but also the possible hypochondriac. Talking with Dr. Rodriguez, this sounded like it was a more balanced and nuanced tour than the one he had taken before. It was indeed interesting to see where Stonewall lived and to hear again the tragic tale of his finally getting a child, only to lose his own life and not see her grow up. Very sad. Stonewall, like many in history, is a complex figure—sympathetic at times, but one of consternation in other times.
From there, we went to the Virigina State run park of the battle of New Market. I was not expecting the quality that I saw. I expected some rinky dinky little park, but it was an excellent experience. The museum presented an excellent summary of the war using miniatures and a timeline that went around the upper level of the museum. The bottom level of the museum had some more exhibits as it related to the battle of New Market. However, the most moving thing was the film.
The film was called the Field of Lost Shoes, and it told the story of the VMI cadets called into duty by CSA general John Breckinridge. It focused on a few of the cadets and told their stories. The video was one of the best I think we have seen. While dramatic and graphic, it was not overly so. The stories were very poignant and moving. I was amazed to hear about the stories, including the Jewish cadet who would go on to become a world recognized sculptor. It was a moving experience, and to see the way those young boys took on their mission made everything at VMI more clear and filled in the blanks on why we went there, aside from the Stonewall Jackson connection. It was a great experience.
From there we traveled to Washington DC. Once we were checked in, we took a night walk around the town, to the Washington Monument. I had seen pictures, but I cannot describe the feelings evoked when I was actually there and could touch the monument. George, I finally made it! It was wonderful to just sit here and think, and I envy those who are in the physical condition to run around the Mall and who live here who can take time to sit and look at this monument to our first President. Even though I was dead tired and my knees are getting worse and my back and feet are painful; I wanted to see the World War II monument. My maternal grandfather fought in the war, and we have a family friend who fought at Iwo Jima. I am sure many in our party thought me out of breath and tired, but I was speechless by seeing the monument. It is very large and moving, to see the two theatres of operation as well as the state slabs. I just wish I could bring Mr. D here and let him see that many still remember and care about him and his comrades.
May 26, 2007—Supreme Court, Capitol Building, National Archives, Lincoln Monument, Korean War Monument, Vietnam War Memorial
This trip is really wearing me out. It makes me that much more impressed with our forebears who were able to walk and run so much farther. Our sedentary lifestyle has really spoiled us. My bum knee is acting up and I am getting bad blisters on my feet. This causes me to slow everyone down and that aggravates me, as I see the looks on some faces saying hurry up old man, you fat goof. I really hate to be the one who holds everyone else up. It hurts me to think I am slowing people down from seeing something they might really want to experience.
I can’t remember whether it was yesterday or today that we walked past the Supreme Court Building. I think it was today. I know I am repeating myself, but I could not help but be moved by the site of that building which has had so many cases which influence our rights. The words “equal justice under law” at the top is something we need to continually aspire to.
From there, we got tickets to the Capitol Building tour. The Capitol is an impressive building from the outside, but the inside is just beautiful. In order to get in, we had to go through metal detectors and into a little building. I was amazed at the rudeness of some in line and parents being unwilling or unable to control their children. The behavior I saw must be acceptable in their countries of origin, but my family would never have it. Anyway, we got the chance to go in and our tour guide was great. I asked to ride an elevator, and I got a little bit of an exclusive tour. I got to to see the medical center in the Capitol and also got to ride up Speaker Nancy Pelosi’s elevator to the view of the Rotunda. The painting at the top of the rotunda is beautiful, depicting Washington rising into heaven surrounded by women representing the 13 states. I got to stand where great people have lied in state in the Rotunda, like Presidents Ford and Reagan, ML King, Jr., and others. Looking at the wonderful statues and hearing the stories was great. Going into the original chamber of the US House was interesting. Seeing the different statues for the different states was challenging. However, more challenging must have been the ability to hear, as the guide told us this was also the office area where people would come and talk to their reps. Wow, that must have been chaotic, especially with the acoustics in the chamber. We saw several plaques on the floor showing where key members of the House’s desks were. I saw Andrew Johnson, I also saw the spot where John Quincy Adams’s desk was, and the spot where he had a 2nd stroke after getting a standing ovation for returning to the House after his first stroke. Sadly, Adams died soon after. We also got to hear about why the museum area is called the crypt, because they wanted to bury Washington and Mrs. Washington there, but a dispute over the remains happened. Also, we got to see the most realistic likeness of Lincoln, according to his last surviving son. It was an incredible, if quick, tour. Our guide was great, and I enjoyed visiting the Capitol very much.
We also went to the National Archives. My legs and feet have been really hurting, and standing in the line was not a good thing. I was rapidly getting worn out. I guess the last 10 days has been weighing very heavily on me. The procedures were not very well spelled out, as we spent an hour being told to get into a single file line, but then when we were let into the area of the documents, we were told that there was no line, and we could look in whatever order we wanted. That is what I and Kansas did. We looked over others’ shoulders and made our way through the documents. I felt awe at seeing the actual documents of freedom. I so wanted to touch them, but obviously that would be a bad idea as there are some that are over 2 centuries old. To think I am looking at what Jefferson wrote, or where Johnny Hancock signed his name. Kansas was right: one cannot understand how people can come to this city and not be moved patriotically. I am so jealous of those who serve here, and wish our elected leaders did not take so much of this wonderful people’s city for granted, but one can tell they do.
In the evening, we went for a walk down the Mall to the Lincoln memorial as well as the Korean and Vietnam memorials. I cannot express my regret that my present condition did not allow me to climb the steps of the memorial. It is so hard to be wanting to do something, have it in front of you; but know you cannot do it. However, my sister carried the family well and made it up there and saw honest Abe close up. I saw him from a distance. From there, we went where many of the Rolling Thunder vets were going: to the Korea and Vietnam memorials.
My grandpa was a medic during Korea and never talks about it very much. The monument shows soldiers marching off across the peninsula into the mists. The wall behind the statues with the faces looking back at you is moving. The men look right into your souls. It is a shame that so many have forgotten Korea and these brave men and the women as well, some of whom saw action earlier in WWII and later in Vietnam. Korea was a conflict where our men acquitted themselves bravely, yet we largely gloss over their war. My grandma’s husband now is also a Korean vet. I can recall Art at church who told of marching across into China and how the Chinese came flooding from the hills and scared the hell out of the men. I had so many tears in my eyes. It made me want to repair the relationship I have with my grandpa, and to teach more about the “forgotten war.”
From there, it got even more intense. From the first little bump of a wall, to the end, my eyes filled with tears. Seeing the teddy bears, the letters, the posters, the updates; it was so very touching. Watching big burly biker men weep and hug one another and seeing families looking for loved ones, I felt so much love and longing. Hearing the stories, talking to vets, and thanking them; I felt like I was doing nothing, but they told me it meant so much to them. Especially when I mentioned I was a teacher, they said don’t forget us. I told them I damn well would make sure I did not, that I could never forget this moment. My sister had a similar event happen when she was asked to help a family find a loved one. Kansas and Eddie got to sign a battle flag and were told about some of the action in the war. I had a few uncles serve in Nam, and I can’t wait to get home and hug them and let them know I get it even more now.
Hope and John were exhausted, so we took a cab back to the hotel. I was not looking forward to tomorrow, when I would have to be something I hate: a quitter.
May 27, 2007—Rolling Thunder Parade, Smithsonian Air and Space, Concert
I hate quitting and begging out. Even as a kid, I never let anyone outlast me, I never let pain get in my way. Now, however, I had to. My knee a few times the night before felt like it was going to slip out of socket and also it was throbbing. My feet were blistered. All the adjustments I made to compensate for this re hurting my back and leg muscles. Therefore, I did not go to one of the things I wanted to see: the Rolling Thunder parade. I did watch some of it on TV and Mary made a video of it. How awesome that these vets do this to keep the memories of their comrades alive, and to keep awareness of MIAs out there. The lone MIA in the Iraq war, Matt Maupin, is from Cincinnati. I have met his parents and they are lovely people.
After resting up a bit, Mary, Eddie, and I went to the Air and Space museum at the Smithsonian. It was a neat experience, but the holiday crowds meant rapid fire siteseeking. I was not pleased when I found out the Enterprise had been moved to facility near Dulles airport, but seeing Amelia Earhart’s plane and Charles Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis was incredible. Also looking at the Apollo capsules and the earth to the moon exhibit was incredible. I have met two Apollo astronauts, Walt Cunningham and Dick Gordon, and it was great to see some of their work on display. My dad met Neil Armstrong and I loved seeing the displays about him.
Again, my legs and back and feet were bothering me, so I opted out of the concert. Seeing the sound checks, I am sure it was spectacular. Eric Kunzel, conductor of the national orchestra, used to conduct the Cincinnati symphony orchestra, and he did great work. I look forward to seeing it and hearing the stories from the class about it, though I am sure Mary and the girls will be focused on Josh Turner. I am watching currently the Memorial Day movie marathon on AMC. Oh, I did find one Enterprise—the model of the aircraft carrier on display at the Smithsonian.
This has been a great trip, and I have made some great friends and spent time with my sister. However, I am at the point where I am looking forward to getting back home to the life I looked so forward to leaving a few days ago. I have learned a great deal, and I have learned a lot about myself as well.
